10 Things to Consider When Shopping for Betta Fish Tanks

Bettas are among the most fascinating and low-maintenance fish you can keep. And their ability to breathe atmospheric oxygen and live in extremely small volumes of water allows them to be housed in a variety of small aquaria that can supplement any home or office. In any case, there are some important considerations to bear in mind when looking for the ideal tank for your pet betta. Please read on as we talk about these issues and our own suppositions on what to search for in a small betta tank.

Characteristics of The Best Betta Fish Tanks

1) Adequate Size

Indeed, it’s valid that a betta can live in a small bowl, on the off chance that it had to. But this isn’t the most satisfying life for such a regal fish. In addition, small dishes are inclined to heating and cooling incredibly rapidly, as well as experiencing rapidly contamination that can easily happen from even slight overfeeding. As a general dependable guideline, we propose a base tank size of one gallon to keep one adult betta. Obviously, your betta would be happy in the event that you gave a larger aquarium, but a gallon container is generally adequate inasmuch as it is persistently maintained. Bettas can also be housed in community tanks, but take care not to keep them with fish that will in general nip fins. For example, tiger barbs are famous for fin nipping, and will shred a betta’s fins rapidly. Destroyed fins are not only a restorative issue, unfortunately, and a betta with badly torn fins can easily kick the bucket from pressure and/or secondary contaminations like yuck/growth.

2) A Good, Tight Fitting Cover

Bettas are not what I’d consider big time “jumpers,” but they can and will hop whenever given half a chance. Some of the time osmotic or different pressure will cause them to hop, and in some cases they will leap basically because the can. To limit any danger of such escape, out of the blue, do yourself a favor and put a cover on the tank. Be careful however to leave some air space between the surface of the water and the spread as they are air breathers and need to swallow air occasionally.

3) No Strong Currents or Water Movement

This is a consideration that I often observe neglected, especially in a portion of the smaller betta tanks. Bettas have advanced to flourish in still or stagnant waters where this no little or no flow. And, as a result of this plan, they are unhappy when exposed to flows typically generated by hang on back channels or incredible aeration. Bettas require water that is either still, or extremely placid. They do not require aeration of any sort, especially when appropriately maintained and in a tank without anyone else. In the event that you do utilize a channel at all, make sure that the tank is sufficiently large (e.g., 3 gallons or more) or the channel can be dialed down (e.g., an air release valve on an aquarium siphon) with the end goal that the betta does not have to apply exertion to maintain its position in the water section. On the off chance that your betta is getting pushed around or battling to stay still, it will put constant stain on the fish that can eventually lead to disease or death.

4) Bare Floor or Fine Substrates

Bettas don’t need or want any substrate in their tanks. In fact, bare base tanks are best for you and the betta since they facilitate easy clean up. In the event that you do want to add some colorful gravel, nonetheless, keep it sparse and decide on relatively small grained types, rather than the large, marble-sized gravel that is often sold for small decorative dishes/tanks. Very course gravel makes a great trap for uneaten food, which at that point decays and causes potentially lethal ammonia spikes. Finer gravel (pea-sized or smaller) allows the fish to get at food that lands on the base, and still allows you to see when food is left uneaten and necessities removal – the two of which is better for your fish.

5) Regular Light Cycles

Fish, as most vertebrates, react profoundly to light cycles. As an animal groups that lives near the equator, your betta will expect a photoperiod of about 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. On the off chance that you don’t utilize artificial lighting, you don’t have to give any, but avoid turning the lights on late around evening time when your fish is preparing to “rest.” Also, attempt to purchase a tank that utilizations LED lighting. Driven lights are by a wide margin the most effective and enduring sort you can purchase, and also generate the least amount of unwanted heat.

6) Warm Temperatures

In contrast to goldfish, for example, which can flourish in freezing water, betta are a tropical fish. In their native waters of Southeast Asia, they rarely experience temperatures underneath 76 F. Subsequently, you ought to always aim to keep your bettas at least temperature of 72F, with a temperature of 78F being ideal. Bettas can certainly withstand cooler temps for brief durations, but stretched out presentation to water temperatures beneath 72F make them lethargic and profoundly vulnerable to contaminations and diseases, particularly fin spoil, yuck, and growth.

7) Individual Housing

Although female bettas can be kept together, males cannot be kept with different males or females. The main special case to this standard is in the event that you are attempting to breed bettas, in which case the male will tolerate the female (hesitantly) just until the eggs are laid, after which time he will attack and kill her if the tank isn’t large enough for her to escape his view.

8) Good Water Quality

Whatever you do, you should keep a betta’s water clean. This means that occasional water changes ought to be directed, which include expelling any garbage from the base of the tank. A decent general guideline is to change between 30-half of the water every week. This keeps the water new without changing things too drastically. Make sure to utilize dechlorinated water and attempt to match the temperature of the new water to the old water.

9) Placement in a Calm Area, Away From Direct Light

You wouldn’t want to live by a 6-lane highway, and neither would your betta, so get the tank some place far from heavy pedestrian activity. It’s troublesome enough carrying on with your life in a small transparent container, don’t make matters progressively upsetting by locating the tank where your betta will be dependent upon constant development and/or vibrations. Also, locate the tank away from direct daylight, which can cause rapid temperature spikes and encourage algae development.

10) Simplicity!

On the off chance that you’ve picked a tank of adequate size, keep the betta without anyone else, maintain appropriate temperatures and stay aware of regular water changes, there’s very little else you need. Be wary of vendors that attempt to sell lots of accessories for beta-just tanks, as sophisticated channels, lighting, and so on. These things are usually unnecessary.